Gastronomy in the Region
A Journey Through the Flavors of Mallorca
Mallorca has a rich history of invasions. Over centuries, the island was contested between Catalan, Moorish, Castilian, and Italian kingdoms. Mallorcans have always adapted and survived. When asked if they would like a coffee, they often respond with "És igual," meaning "it's the same to me." Of course, that's not entirely true, but it is a polite way to let the other person interpret the situation and save face.
In culinary terms, Mallorca is also a land of adaptation. Culinary influences are embraced, integrated, and, if needed, rejected or transformed. The Mallorcan palate is adventurous yet traditional and discerning at the same time.
We are happy to introduce you to some recommended gastronomic establishments, including supermarkets and weekly markets, patisseries, cafés, and restaurants. However, we should note that not all establishments are excellent, and standards may change from season to season with new chefs or owners.
Pa amb Oli. What is it, really?
Pa amb oli is a Mallorcan specialty that literally translates to "bread with oil." It consists of one or two slices of Mallorcan rustic bread drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with salt, and topped with tomato slices. This forms the base. You can then add cheese, ham (e.g., Parma ham "Pernil Salat" or "Jamón País"), cooked ham "Jamon York," or other toppings like sobrasada or sausage. Sometimes, olives or sea fennel are served as a side, or even a bit of salad. The dish is typically served with cutlery as it's not eaten by hand. Modern variations are encouraged and welcome. In recent years, Pambolierias dedicated solely to this Mallorcan specialty have opened. A similar Catalan specialty is Pa amb Tomàquet, where bread is rubbed with a halved, particularly fruity tomato before being seasoned with salt, olive oil, and toppings.
Ensaimada. It Doesn't Get More Typical
The traditional Mallorcan Ensaïmada is a sweet, spiral-shaped pastry, usually offered in a circular form with a diameter of about 40 centimeters. Depending on the occasion, it can also be larger or available as an individual pastry with a diameter of approximately 20 centimeters. The name Ensaïmada already reveals its uniqueness: it is made from a fermented dough of flour, yeast, milk, and egg, rolled out very thin. After the dough is brushed with lard (saïm; ensaïmada means "covered with lard"), it is rolled up and shaped into a spiral. As leavening agents, yeast and lard are used: the dough rises due to the yeast, while the rolled-up layers of dough separate as the lard creates bubbles in the oven. Finally, the Ensaïmada is dusted with powdered sugar. If planned as a takeaway for travel, the powdered sugar is provided in a separate sachet to prevent the fat from absorbing it and making it appear glazed. Before consumption, the Ensaïmada is then decorated with the powdered sugar.
There are numerous recipe variations of the Ensaïmada with different fillings and ingredients. Examples include Ensaïmada with sobrasada, a Mallorcan paprika sausage, or with juicy apricots. Other versions include fillings like vanilla cream, whipped cream, or Cabello de Ángel (angel hair), a type of pumpkin jam that adds sweetness and variety to the pastry.
Supermarkets. Practical but Not for Falling in Love
The SYP-Eroski in Artà is a small supermarket located in the village center. To get there, simply follow the main road into the village center. At the corner where you must turn right or left, you will find the SYP-Eroski. While this supermarket may not be visually appealing, it provides basic groceries. For additional shopping, it is worth visiting smaller stores in the area. The SYP-Eroski at the exit of Manacor is also not more attractive but serves its purpose for basic food supplies.
Mercadona is a widespread supermarket chain in Spain, present in many larger towns like Manacor and Cala Rajada. The company, founded in Valencia, has grown to become Spain's largest supermarket chain. Mercadona is known for its extensive range of private-label products, as well as its offerings of fresh vegetables, a wide variety of meats, and a large selection of fish. In a Mercadona supermarket, you can find both essential groceries and regional specialties to meet your needs.
The hypermarkets in Manacor come in two versions: a large supermarket at the city's entrance and a smaller one in the city center. The large hypermarket resembles French supermarkets like Auchan or Géant and offers an extensive range of products. Here, you can find practically everything, from staples to fresh produce, household items, and electronics. The smaller hypermarket in the city center may have a more limited selection but is still a good option for everyday shopping.
Aldi and Lidl are also widely available and can be found in many towns across Spain. These German discount chains offer not only their well-known private-label products but also regional items tailored to local tastes and needs. This makes shopping appealing for both locals and tourists looking for familiar brands and a chance to enjoy regional specialties. These supermarkets are an excellent choice for purchasing affordable groceries and household items while sampling local products.
Bakeries. Hold Back Your Indulgence
In Manacor, there is a chain of Mediterranean bakeries called Tofol. Walking into one of these bakeries might feel like stepping back into the 1970s, but the baked goods offered are excellent. For example, you can find Ensaïmadas with apricots, Cabello de Ángel (Angel's Hair, a pumpkin marmalade), or even Sobrasada, the spicy Mallorcan cured sausage. Interestingly, Sobrasada was recently named the unhealthiest sausage in Spain. Nevertheless, Tofol's products are a fantastic opportunity to enjoy local specialties and traditional Mallorcan baked goods.
In Sant Llorenç, Bernat runs a bakery known for its lovingly crafted and delicious products. To find the shop, you can ask Jochen – it is located along the main street. The bakery offers a variety of delightful pastries, such as tarts, Ensaïmadas, Empanadas, and bread. The shop itself is a visual delight, with many small and large details making the shopping experience special. Don't miss the chance to visit this charming spot and taste the delicious, handmade baked goods.
The offerings at Forn Nou n'Amer are diverse and include pudding-filled pastries, apricot Ensaïmadas, Ensaïmadas with Sobrasada (the Mallorcan cured sausage), and excellent savory baked goods. These include Cocas, a type of pizza dough topped with peppers, and Empanadas, stuffed pastries filled with meat. It's worth trying the various specialties and enjoying the traditional baking craftsmanship of this bakery.
Forn de Can Pere in Artà is a bakery renowned for its delicious pastries and traditional Mallorcan baked goods. This cozy bakery not only offers tasty baked items but also serves coffee and various beverages. Forn de Can Pere is an ideal spot to take a relaxing break while enjoying the delicious pastries and refreshing drinks.
Restaurants. Where You Will Be Pampered
Can Jaume
Carrer Cristofol Ferrer Pons, 13 Artà. Tel.: 0034 646296515. Traditional Mallorcan cuisine.
Sa Tafona de Son Fang
Carretera Artà - Ermita de Betlem Kilometer 1,5. Artà. Tel.: 0034 971829591. Rural restaurant. Highly popular with locals and expats and consistently receives excellent reviews. Sa Tafona de Son Fang
Forn Nou, Carrer del Centre, 7, Artà. Tel.: 0034 628252737.
Deep in the heart of Artà's old town lies Café Forn Nou. The historic bakery has been lovingly transformed into a hotel with an adjoining café and restaurant. The six rooms are mainly occupied by German guests, with occasional visits from mainland Spaniards, French, and Italians. The cozy main room of the café, adorned with artworks by Mallorcan and European artists and featuring a rustic-modernized style with Art Nouveau elements, serves as a breakfast room in the morning. Locals frequently stop by to enjoy Jordi's excellent espresso and cappuccino and indulge in freshly baked croissants or Ensaïmadas. At lunchtime and in the evening, the space becomes a restaurant, frequented primarily by foreign visitors in summer – locals tend to arrive later, often after 11 PM. Both lunch and dinner offer a reasonably priced and appealing set menu. However, for the best quality that Forn Nou's chefs have to offer, à la carte dining is recommended. The selection is not extensive (main courses include three meat dishes and one fish dish, depending on market availability), but it is imaginative, high-quality, and well-composed.
Es Molí d'en Bou
Now CLOSED, reopened at a nearby location under a new name, Tomeu Caldentey Cuiner. Carrer Lilies s/n, Sant Llorenç des Cardassar. Fine dining, the first Mallorcan chef with a Michelin star. Website: https://www.esmolidenbou.es/
Tomeu Caldentey Cuiner
Fine dining, experimental, various menus. Located in Sa Coma, on the coast of Sant Llorenç. Carrer Liles s/n, 07560. Sa Coma, Sant Llorenç des Cardassar. Website: https://tomeucaldentey.com/
Es Pati
The small restaurant Es Pati ("The Courtyard") stands out for its menu. It offers various affordable surprise menus (4-course menu for €30 plus drinks, 5-course menu for €35 plus drinks). Fusion tendencies (tomato soup with coconut, guinea fowl breast with seaweed salad...). Es Pati also prepares takeaways, allowing you to enjoy its dishes comfortably at Finca Alzinar. Recommended for those who appreciate variety and small culinary experiments.
Crêperie Sa Bassa Manacor
In the small Creperia, you can eat well, quickly, and affordably. Usually, you would have just one course, such as a large salad (e.g., with chicken breast) or one of the many savory crepes, some of which are prepared like pizzas. For dessert, you could order another crepe, this time sweet, or an ice cream. The service is friendly, and the place is often crowded due to its quality and pricing. Reservations are recommended.
Ca'n March
Ca'n March is among the better restaurants in Manacor but remains understated. It is primarily a Mallorcan restaurant. The decor follows local tastes, and while the menu is unpretentious, the dishes are crafted to perfection. The multilingual staff is happy to assist with wine selections. A reasonably priced lunch menu for €13 includes a starter, main course, dessert, and drink. Situated in a small side street in a relatively inconspicuous building on the mezzanine floor, it's worth looking up the address in advance.
Cafeteria and Beach Restaurant Bar Playa, Costa dels Pins
Located directly on the beach with a wonderful view over the bay of Costa de los Pinos (the Pine Coast), Bar Playa is one of the more interesting Italian and fish restaurants in northeastern Mallorca. The distant tourist hotels are small and unobtrusive. Luigi serves juicy pizzas, delicious pasta, and other meat and fish dishes. Because the terrace is wide but not very deep, nearly every table is in the first row, right by the sea. During the day, you can also enjoy delicious coffee and cakes here. The drive there is worth it just for the scenic country road.